For 18 count fabric I use single strands of size 5 and size 3.
For 20 – 24 count fabrics I used size 5 through size 8 threads.
If you use a higher count fabric than 24 you will probably need to use a thread more slender than a size 5.
Most of my Hardanger projects are worked on 22-24 count evenweave fabric using DMC pearl and Anchor perle in thread weight size 5 and size 8. Though in more limited colors than the size 5 and size 8 these threads are also available in the thicker weight size 3 and thinner weight size 12 thread. All of these mentioned threads are single stranded.
Hardanger buttonhole stitched edge: You need to ensure that the size thread you select for the buttonhole stitch edge is of the thickness to help bind the fabric thread so that the buttonhole edge does not unravel when excess exterior fabric is trimmed away. I used the size 5.
When stitching you want to use a length of stitching thread that is comfortable to you. I find 20-22-inches to be about the max length as the cotton thread begins to wear and fray from the friction of going through the fabric.
I also like to use Caron over-dyed threads from their Wildflower collection. This is a single strand hand-dyed cotton in variegated colors. It has more of a matte finish then the pearl and perle threads. Single stranded, this thread is between a size #8 and #12 in weight.
Thread Info:
As shown in the above photo Anchor and DMC have paper bands around the skeins and labels on their balls of thread. These bands and labels state the manufacturer, normally contains country of origin along with color number, yard length within the skein, etc.. I make sure I keep the paper bands and labels on the skein or ball so I especially know the color number, manufacturer, and dye lot.
- DMC divisible 100% cotton six-strand floss is 8.7 yards per skein.
- Anchor divisible 100% cotton six-strand floss is 8.75 yards per skein.
The following are non-divisible thread:
- Anchor size 5 is 23 yards per skein
- DMC size 5 is 27 yards per skein
- Weeks Dye Works size 5 is 10 yards per skein
- Classic Colorworks size 5 is 10 yards per skein
- DMC size 8 is 87 yards per ball
- Anchor size 8 is 85 yards per ball

Do not just dive into pulling thread out of a skein: Strong caution here, though I know several friends who leave their thread as is in the skein and pull out the length they need …. I don’t.
I’ve gotten into jumbled tangles several times doing this pull out the length … I now open the skein up like shown in the top two photos to the left and store the opened skein with a loose knot. The soft, large knot within the open skein helps to keep the paper label with its skein.
The DCM pearl and Anchor perle threads are s-twisted and do have a sheen to them. There is no set rule but when I open a new skein I snip it such that one end retains the knot. I thread the needle with the free end thread of the skein then the length is cut. With this method I feel that it helps to provide a uniform look to the thread’s sheen.
My go to website for learning about s-twisted, z-twisted (rayon thread used in Brazilian embroidery), different threads, opening a skein, etc.. has been Mary Corbet’s http://www.needlenthread.com/. She near daily adds to her blog and has a good search box for asking questions like ‘thread sheen’, ‘opening a skein’ and so on.
Threads: I like the sheen of DMC and Anchor mercerized cotton. For framed stitched projects on 18 count fabric (canvas) and pillows I use a mercerized cotton thread with a good twist such as a size 5 pearl (DMC) or size 5 perle (Anchor). For chair usage I would use the heavier size 3 pearl (perle) cotton thread.
A strong medium-weight wool yarn is good for a pillow or chair seating. I usually work in DMC or Anchor size 5 but I have used DMC Tapestry Wool (a soft smooth non-divisible 100% virgin wool, which I purchased in USA from 123stitch.com). This DMC Tapestry wool has a nice color selection but note the skeins only contain 8.7 yards each.
I have not done so, but you could use a six strand floss like DMC or Anchor. I would make a small (like 2-inch square) sample using un-separated floss and then another sample area with separated floss using a laying tool in order to produce flat stitching of the separated floss. In cross stitch and crewel work I have used a laying tool for whole projects and that produces a lovely look to the separated floss threads but it is a lot of extra work when adding a laying tool to your stitching work.
Normally within Bargello the stitch length on an 18-count mono canvas is no longer than over four fabric threads (longer might be snagged when the pillow or chair is in use).